Defreggerhaus, Austria (27/8/07)

The first thing that hits you is the cold. It's everywhere. The sleeping area in this Defreggerhaus checkpoint has undoubtedly been designed by a farmer inspired by cattle barracks. Beds are lined up against each other like World War II bunkers. Men and women alike lie like sardines next to each other, separated by thin plywood sheets for compartments. I hold my pee in for fear that a visit to the loo will cause me to catch pneumonia.

And so here I am, curled in a corner in the main eating room, huddled against her back for warmth, while she reads her novel. My mountain socks are pulled all the way up my calves. Hikers around me drink beer and stare at the walls. I wonder if it is because they are tired, or so cold that they've falled asleep with their eyes frozen open. S reads on, oblivious that I am turning blue next to her.